Відео

I think I'd probably go the other way around and have 5V the primary supply, generating the +12 and -12. You'd expect their current draw to be minimal and their impact on audio and video out to be less severe. That said, hanging a spinning rust SCSI disc off the side might well suck more than a simple boost converter can supply to the 12V line, so I may be talking cobblers.

Thank you so very much for the videos. I enjoyed all 3 parts. What did you use to clean up the outside of the case? Thank you again.

I'm sure the special button enables pre programmed macros designed for Street Fighter 2. Each character has an assigned number, and a single number may be assigned to multiple characters with identical move commands, such as 1.Ryu, Ken, Sagat. 2.Blanka, E Honda. 3.Guile,Vega(Bison) etc... Depending on the character number you set , each of the numbered face buttons perform the special moves. The Super UFO by Fire has a similar function.

Hi @gadgetuk164 - not asking you to betray any confidences, but have you heard from Jay of VintageJunk lately?

I notice later in the video the battery had been changed and wonder if you tried measuring with a good battery in your meter and comparing when you had the weak battery in cos the measurement reference goes out of tolerance when the battery is low. I had a good 9v battery that measured 12v on my old fluke 77 until I replaced the battery 😂

Great job soldering that PCB. I wouldn't even attempt it. Ha ha.

It is impressive, nevertheless. I think it will work fine on an A500 with an internal Gotek, maybe some RAM expansion, and a Compact Flash as a HDD, nothing to load the circuit much. But noise in the sound output is a showstopper for me, I may be wrong but AFAIK, -12V is also used by the opamps in the sound circuits of the A500.

The switch mode noise would be coming from that 12v psu you’re using to power the adaptor module with. Unfortunately most use a low switching frequency and that’s what causes the noise. If you get a good quality 12v supply you probably won’t get any switching noise. Regardless I’d probably just use the original Amiga power supply and just refurbish it

Also, try fitting a few 0.01 uF decoupling caps from ground to each of the +5, +12, and -12 rails right there on the top of the pins sticking through the PCB on the new board; that might help with the high-frequency switching noise. 😊

(@ 10:00 or so) Instead of trying to put them on in a weird angle like that, put a small blob of solder on both pads, then mount each component sticking straight up on the pad like a skyscraper. Once you have them, both on, join the tops with a small bodge wire. 😊

It’s basically a poor solution for a problem that doesn’t exist when you consider the cost of a good aftermarket or refurbished original PSU.

Nice video and great job. Greetings from Steven from the Netherlands

Howdy!😁

Github Project - github.com/MastaTabs/a500spwr

About the Neo-C1 remplacement part, we (Delta Island french orum) are slowly working on a solution that was not available a few years ago: instead of castelared holes, we could use a flex PCB as a placeholder for the chip + as a flat cable to have more room to solder a CPLD somewhere near the original place. About your C1 alternative when the player inputs are the only dead lines.... you could wire only the dead inputs (1 or 2) using a GAL as an address decoder and input buffer, using "long" wires soldered to the CPU address lines and to the input EMI filters 😊. That is what Mac Giver would do! (I will probably try this in the future!)

I am still impressed by your diagnostic skills after all these years. Specially by how your boards shine in the end ;). I am in love with MVS and I try to save as many as I can. I am working on a new (advanced?) diagnostics board I would be proud to show you once it finally works under Linux. I have already done some videos about it and more will come in a few weeks. I think it is a good mate for the SMD Dan Neo Diag ROM. Thanks for your good energy! (and sorry for the non-ChatGPT frenglish 😊).

Yoh absolute legend

hey I wonder if you could help me ? ive just swapped out the Neo-b1 in my aes ,I lost 2 pads pin 49 and pin 61 they come back as test data 05 and test data 10 on the pinout , ive been trying to see were they go but the appear to go nowhere is that possible? that they just aren't connected to anything ?

Love it Chris!

Good video really interesting.

Excellent video. Thank you.

Can you also use an SST27SSF512?

Brilliant work from Rob and then yourself for putting this video together, helped immensely, fingers crossed the certificate comes through 🧡💛💚

the saturn version looks really good

action replay does the same job

Part 1 - ua-cam.com/video/EZw9aRRFxq4/v-deo.html Part 3 - ua-cam.com/video/9VjHCXwCXl8/v-deo.html Part 4 - ua-cam.com/video/RexMNLwDIUg/v-deo.html Part 5 - ua-cam.com/video/bdysbfbgj5o/v-deo.html

Part 1 - ua-cam.com/video/EZw9aRRFxq4/v-deo.html Part 2 - ua-cam.com/video/zJyxr27y3oA/v-deo.html Part 4 - ua-cam.com/video/RexMNLwDIUg/v-deo.html Part 5 - ua-cam.com/video/bdysbfbgj5o/v-deo.html

Love the problem solving process on display here

Fun video Chris, interesting to see the Peltier plates fail in the same way as my one, good detective work! Thanks for the mention and channel link 👍

Thank you for this. My everdrive started giving me this message today. So I already ordered my replacement battery. Should be able to replace it tomorrow

For some reason you remind me of Sean connery, how can that be... =)

(@ 46:50 or so) Better idea is to put a tiny drop of IPA on the top of the IC; if it gets hot enough, the IPA will boil off. A lot safer than sticking your finger on it, I think. 😅

Nice fix, Chris. 👍

What happens if you cross a Neo Geo with an Amiga 4000 with a 68040 accelerator? 🤔 Well, I don’t know what you would get, but imagine the games you could play on it!

You need a new of the MPEG chip as it might be bad.

Are they going to redesign the PIStorm to allow the input of the SPDIF signal into the PIStorm so that the SPDIF signal comes out inside the TV and on to the speakers or the TOSLINK on the TV.

Might be possible to make a flat flex cable rather then use a pcb due to the 100 pin density on that c1.

Hi ! Greetings from Brazil ! Great repair video ! I’m trying to repair a similar board that someone tried to repair before, so , the board im trying to fix is missing those two transistors next to the battery, can you tell me the model of them please? Thanks!

Loving the content as ever Chris, great to see you getting right down into it......how to drag solder, clean, probe & troubleshoot these important old boards from our early years!

sometimes your ramblings really make you sound like Alan partridge :) ,great content

Do you have any working MVS boards for sale mate?

Mate, you need a pair of eyeglasses. You're gonna further degrade your vision like that.

Parts board.